Before we get into the details of tuning, first let us learn what all the suspension terminology means. Spring rate is how strong the springs are. Stronger springs require extra energy to squeeze a predetermined amount. Springs, being springs, take extra power to squeeze as they move, thus we have spring “rate.” Any energy will begin to squeeze a spring; it is how much the energy is required to boost per level of motion that determines the speed. The spring coils which are tighter together are meant to be softer than the remainder. As soon as an impact comes along, they provide way initially, until the spring coils connect against one another, and then the remainder of the spring coils, which are stronger, begin to squeeze. Hence, the springs could be stiff enough for more aggressive riding while still having the ability to take up lesser lumps easily. Preload is how much spring electricity the suspension must keep the bicycle and rider up.
With no preload, the suspension would fall and would sag. Setting the preload too large, the suspension will be at its full height, even though the rider is sitting on the bicycle. Primarily, preload should be set such that there is a small sag but not too much. Notice that preload doesn’t raise spring rate, it just preloads the initial force on the spring to move someplace the bike sits on the “speed” scale. Sag is a gauge of how much the suspension drops down when the rider is sitting on the bicycle. When moving over holes, the wheels need to lengthen downwards to stay on the road. Without a sag, even shifting over minor bumps would let the wheels go off the street. This kills grip. A little sag is useful. Sag also consumes your suspension movement, and this will lessen the capacity to take larger bumps without a bottoming. How much is accurate? Lots of riders will offer you precise figures, but the simple fact is that it must be appropriate for you and, if you are a dedicated racer, this isn’t going to get condensed to a procedure.
You merely have to try differing amounts until it seems appropriate. Damping is the rate at which the suspension can move. It’s also controlled by valving or by the weight stickiness of the oil. Too much damping and the suspension will be too sluggish to take up the bumps. Not enough damping and the bike will give way onto and bounce off lumps like a pogo stick. Occasionally, you may be able to change compression and rebound dampening independently – this is a benefit. Like everything else, the right amount of damping hinges heavily on where, how, and what you ride. Bottoming is exactly what happens as you hit a bump so hard that the suspension compresses to its limitations. If you are bottoming frequently while riding about then you either have too soft of a spring rate, to insufficient preload, excessive sag, inadequate fork oil, insufficient damping, or you do not know how to ride very well. If you are seeking for additional info on steering dampers, click on the earlier mentioned website.